Under the motto “between boundaries, within tension”, Korean label Asparagus presented its Spring-Summer 2027 collection at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris: an exercise in balance between masculine and feminine, between structure and softness.
What happens when two opposing forces meet on the same garment? Do they cancel each other out, clash, or end up needing one another?
Asparagus’s answer is clear: beauty is born of that collision. The Korean label made its case at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris, where it presented its Spring-Summer 2027 collection.
Founded in Seoul in 2018 by the designer JE, the name under which Myongje Lee works, Asparagus is a high-end streetwear label whose vision always moves between two worlds: vintage and contemporary, street and haute couture, masculine and feminine codes. Its motto, “all through the avantgarde”, sums up a calling that this season brings to Paris a collection conceived as a statement of identity – that of a brand aspiring to the official calendar.
The new collection stems from an idea that runs through the label’s history and now becomes its backbone: “between boundaries, within tension”. JE explores the beauty that emerges from opposing forces – masculinity and femininity, structure and softness – without trying to resolve them. It is not about choosing a side, but about inhabiting the space that lies between the two.
Returning to Paris has, for the designer, something of a homecoming about it. Lee trained at the École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne and worked as a designer at Maison Margiela. That Parisian training resonates today in a collection that takes silhouettes apart only to rebuild them from somewhere else.
That tension becomes visible, above all, in the silhouettes. Deconstructed and asymmetric, the pieces forgo predictable balance, as if each garment were in the midst of transformation. The experimental details translate that dialogue between opposites onto the garment: structure against softness, masculine against feminine.
The proposition did not stop at the clothes. Sound and performance carried the concept onto the runway, turning the show into an experience that went beyond the textile. Asparagus shared the stage with Korean label BONBOM as part of Concept Korea, the project through which KOCCA presents emerging designers from the country in Paris each season. This edition also coincided with the 140th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Korea and France.
Before the show, the evening opened with a screening of ‘How to Walk’, the film by Ock-seop Yi, which interprets both labels’ collections through tensions such as individuality and collectivity, or freedom and control. A prelude that seemed written for JE’s vision.
With its Spring-Summer 2027 collection, Asparagus shows that tension is not a problem to be solved, but a place from which to create. Between structure and softness, between masculine and feminine, JE has found a territory that is truly distinct.
The brand plans to return to Paris in March 2027, with the expectation of joining the official Paris Fashion Week calendar. The French capital may be just the beginning.
